Paul Costelloe AW20 Show Review
‘Make life easier, on the treadmill of Fashion’
Photo credit: KP
For the third season in a row, I’ve anticipated the Paul Costelloe show with the excitement of a 5 year old on Christmas Eve! It almost goes without saying that the collection never disappoints - indeed, it’s always a highlight for me - but the sheer beauty of the venue, the relaxed, efficient and classy organisation and the happy, joyful production makes this a must-see show, season after season.
You can just tell the care with which every detail is chosen: from the upbeat music, reflecting the designer’s inspiration, one assumes, to the generous goodie bags, and the frisson of electricity that always comes with a celebrity-peppered FROW, this is a special event indeed! See my smile (below) to prove it!
His Dark Materials
Many of you know me as a lover of bright, juicy colours, clashed together or worn in a head-to-toe tonal look. Lately, however, I’ve been drawn much more to the dark side… The first set of looks to grace the Costelloe runway, were therefore right up my current style alley. The muted mix of tonal prints (created in-house) and deep grey, checked or chocolate tailoring, paired with neutral snakeskin boots, gave this AW collection a rich flavour that seemed just right for right now… and for Storm Dennis that continued toying with us outside.
Close-up Fabric Details Shot from the FROW
Tensions Mount!
Photo Credits: Debbie Bragg
Next up were a series of inky blue and acidic chartreuse prints, knits and coats that enveloped and revealed in equal measure. This genius mix of sportswear and tailoring; print and block colour; bodycon and voluminous silhouette created a tension and playfulness that feels urban yet luxe, modern yet heritage and demure yet incredibly sexy.
Just one question remains for me in terms of this set of looks: when can I get my hands on that full-gloved, printed catsuit?
Investment Piece!
Photo Credit: Debbie Bragg
Buying Advice
If you buy one piece from this collection make it a statement piece, like a coat or dress that you’ll wear regularly and that will last and last.
This one (above) has a feminine silhouette that will never date and sculptural cuffs that scream exclusive individuality. The tweeds and wools of the coats were sourced from the Scottish Highlands and the lakes of Como. Quality fabrics that will endure the wildest weather and the toughest travel demands of the intrepid, modern-day, multi-tasking career woman.
Exquisite Sleeve Details
Temperature Gauge - from cool blues to fiery reds
Mixed prints and fabrics in a lighter, brighter palette followed. Florals with checks - check. Shawl collars, patch pockets and a popped, sculptural shoulder, all paired to perfection with more gloved catsuits and snakey boots.
Personal Epiphany!
I’m not yet the fastest at writing show reviews! But one clear benefit of this is that my subconscious percolates what I’ve seen, helping me distil and make sense of it both for myself, and against the wider fashion landscape. In terms of this collection, my epiphany moment was seeing it as the living fusion of my style evolution. That is, the catsuits and ‘club wear’ of my late teens and early twenties have been reimagined in these luxurious, printed bodysuits and styled with the sophisticated, quality tailoring I’ve enjoyed wearing since my mid-thirties!
Perhaps this is simply the ingenuity of an insightful designer at work. At 46, could I be the brand’s target consumer, who danced her way through the 90s and built a corporate career through the noughties and twenty-tens? Thus, this fusion speaks to my desire to retain the fun of my youth whilst still indulging in the luxury of my grown-up world? I sure like to think so!
Sports LUXE
Monochrome graphics, like a cloudy day in the Highlands, were printed on bodysuits and hoodies and paired with that ubiquitous, yellow, snakeskin boot! My kind of après ski look!
Neutral Territory
Next on the agenda was an eminently wearable selection of chic pieces that would slot into anyone’s wardrobe effortlessly. High-waisted, slouchy trousers and city shorts, cinched-waist dresses, loose-fitting jumpsuits and oversized suede jackets spoke to a strong and beautiful femininity.
Printed Dress Princess
It feels to me that Costelloe has considered every woman’s body shape when creating these dresses (and jumpsuits). From empire-line babydoll, to floor-grazing maxi, there’s a cut and length to suit every woman, and a choice of modesty level, in terms of how much skin she wants to reveal… or not. A truly modern approach to design, I’m sure you’ll agree.
Dress Details from the FROW
Photo Credits: Debbie Bragg
In the Bag!
No collection would be complete without an accessory or two. Belts were primarily broad, waist-cinching and double-buckled. Bags were structured, convertible and clearly designed for the no-nonsense, commuting, career girl. These practical pouches, of all sizes, invariably appeared to accommodate a laptop and documents. They offered multi-way carry options - top handle, crossbody and backpack harnesses proliferated. My personal favourite was the über-maxi, crossbody weekender in durable duck-egg blue leather (top left above). Could this provide my latest packing challenge? Spend a long weekend with just this one carry-on? If the luggage is this beautiful, consider it ‘challenge accepted’!
Now Take the Final Walk with Me!
So that’s my personal impression of the ‘Father of Fashion’s’ AW20 collection. What are your thoughts? Do you think you’re Paul’s target consumer? What’s your favourite look? Leave me a note in the comments?
And, yes, that is my broad, Scottish brogue yelling ‘bravo’ at the end of the video! You can take the girl out of Glasgow… as they say!
Huge thanks to Trace Publicity and Paul Costelloe for inviting me to this fabulous event! Here’s to next season!
Thanks for reading.
Nx