Mark Fast AW20 Show Review — Nikki Oji Wears

Yé-Yé Inspires a Speedy Streetstyle-Couture Mash Up

Thigh Boots, High Hems and Innovative Knits

Some designers’ inspiration can be a little obscure, but Fast’s interpretation of swinging, late-sixties London, drawn from music muse, Francoise Hardy [French chanteuse and leading figure of the yé-yé movement], was clear for all to see. Knitted thigh boots in white, red, blue and black accompanied many a mini skirt, while knits were bright, fun and typically feathery. Prints, meanwhile, were paradoxically rendered in a camo-grafitti collision of colour.

Coral Co-ords

Some colours need only the simplicity of black or white to act as a foil, allowing them to shine forth. These coral tones (or smoked salmon, as I’m inclined to call them), seen in fluffy feathers and fabulous fringing in Fast’s spring/summer collection, were reinterpreted for autumn/winter in animal-like prints, with contrasting black, and in a sharp, power-play of blazers, waistcoats and suiting.

Tailor Made

Tailoring proliferated many a look, but it was the primary-coloured trouser suits that made the biggest statement. Matching boots elongated these looks, which were at once powerful, yet relaxed, thanks to the roomy, unrestrictive cut.

R E D

Whether top-to-toe, or popping on knitwear, hats and boots, the colour red featured heavily and almost certainly raised a few heart rates! White hairbands and thigh boots evoked 60s optimism, when hemlines were as high as libidos and female emancipation really began to burgeon. Cut back to 21st century Britain and I can’t help but wonder if that level of optimism will ever return… For now, at least, we can always wear red and enjoy its power, from boardroom to bedroom.

Urban Glamour

Despite the retro flavour I’ve described, there was no denying this was a collection for right now. Graffiti-style prints popped with neon, and customarily-muddy camouflage was treated to a pretty, colour infusion of pinks, purples and blues. Oversized puffer jackets were paired with micro minis or matched with trousers for that all-over street style vibe that hits you like a not-unpleasant, visual punch in the face!

Playful Proportions

It’s no secret I love a mini-skirt! The shorter and more shocking the better (my mum would’ve said)! But even I feel a little self-conscious in a micro mini (not to mention a bit chilly in winter)! One way to counteract this is to play with proportion - adding a long coat to your thigh-skimmer means you can at least walk down the street with a little more modesty. Mark Fast obliges us miniskirt-lovers with bulky outerwear and OTK boots, thus minimising the flesh exposed (and the chill). Where hips were snakey and hemlines high, tops, coats and jackets were chunky and voluminous, ensuring balance and modernity.

After Dark

Chock-full of styling ideas for little-worn ‘going out-out’ dresses, this set of looks was a feast for maximalists like me. I’m already inspired to pull a few pieces I have stashed from the nineties and layer them over sheer knits and underneath fringed tops and feathery jackets. Pairing with boots adds a toughness that feels so NOW. The deep violet dress was beautifully proportioned to reveal and conceal in all the right places. Removing some of the slightly-scary bulk of fabric to show fishnet-encased panels of flesh guaranteed the body was celebrated. Other looks were more modest, leaving the movement of the fringes to seduce us to the rhythms of the models’ walk.

Experience the Final Walk - and all that fabulous fringing in motion!

What decade in fashion most inspires you? Do you have a favourite look from this collection? Let me know in the comments!

Special thanks to Spring Global for inviting me and to house photographer, Chris Yates.

Thanks for reading!

Nx

Special thanks to Spring Global for inviting me and to house photographer, Chris Yates.