Johnstons of Elgin AW20 Show Review

A Highland Fusion of Global Proportions

Scottish Enclave in the Heart of London

A 15 minute walk in the bitterly cold, winter sunshine was rewarded with the welcoming greeting of Champagne on arrival at the historic Serpentine Gallery. As a first-timer at Johnstons’ London Fashion Week event, I felt instantly at home on hearing the soft, Scottish brogue of many a guest waft its way around the gallery. Familiar faces from the world of sport, music and business mingled convivially, their friendliness spearing me pleasantly with a delicious stab of homesickness.

An initial browse through the collection, railed in the outer gallery, confirmed my expectations - this was heritage knitwear and quality tailoring on a superior level.

Growing
Gray-cefully

Creative Director, Alan Scott, took inspiration from the Scottish Highlands, seen clearly in the soft greys, neutrals and muted blues throughout. Unsurprising, you might think, given the Scottish heritage of the brand and its ongoing commitment to its mills in Elgin and Hawick.
But this is an undeniably global brand, with Scott also inspired by South American skylines and snow-peaked, Mongolian mountains.

Besides his exploration of long-established weaving techniques, Scott delved into the origins of fine fibres, like Cashmere and Merino wool, to create modern designs that breathe new life into traditional methods, alongside familiar, fair isle and jacquard prints. The styling too is eminently modern - acres of sweater, scarf and shawl were layered over slouchy trousers to envelop and cocoon the wearer in warmth and luxury.

Beautiful Blues

From the traditional houndstooth tweeds, to the authentic patterns and colours that perhaps emulate the blue skies and arid sunshine of the Peruvian coast, eye-popping blues, ice-water aqua and turquoise brought classic trenches, blazers and car coats firmly up to date.

check this out…

This reversible tweed car coat is one of the hero pieces from the collection - a true investment buy that would last a lifetime.
While individually, each piece in this look may appear traditional in form and colour, together they scream individuality and modernity to me. The mix of tartan and tweeds blend and contrast in almost equal measure, daring the eye to take another look!

Colour Me Happy!

Life-long colour-lover, yes. But did you know I’m also the kind of die-hard advocate of wool that would most probably earn me a medal from HRH Charles himself?! Scotland can be damp, grey and miserably cold in winter, so growing up, my parents extolled the benefits of pure, new wool in me. I’m always delighted when I check a garment’s fabric content and find it’s mostly wool! Not only is it warm, it’s resilient, lasting and easy to maintain.

Seeing these pieces above, where muted oatmeal tones are vibrantly brought to life by lotus pink, layers of blue and regal purples, makes me happy indeed! Authentic, yet undeniably modern and joyful!

global heritage

Nowhere was the influence of traditional Peruvian textile and pattern more clear, to me, than in this beautiful look.
The loose-fitting blanket-style jacket, layered over a simple black tunic, offers comfort, colour and style.
Just add matching scarf and stole for that bold, citizen-of-the-world cool!

Dark Matter

Those who would live in monochrome were blessed too with a smattering of darker looks, lightly embellished with ziggurat patterns and Greek key motifs. This athleisure luxe, or Athluxe (?) reflects the way we live now - in cars, airports, indoor shopping malls. It’s comfortable, unfussy, yet beautifully elegant.

Autumnal Tones of Caramel, Cinnamon and Bitter Chocolate

Diversity of colour marked this collection out for me. Just when you thought it was all sophisticated, soft neutrals, a pop of turquoise woke you right up! Having said that, the beautiful blends of honey-tones and caramel seemed perfect, as we look ahead to autumn’s chill.

I’d also like to pause here for a moment and point out the diversity of model on the Johnston’s catwalk. While not every facet of humanity was represented, what I found incredibly refreshing was the number of ‘older models’ looking every bit as glamorous as their younger counterparts. Not only did their beautiful and interesting faces look at home and ‘believable’ in these luxury, and, let’s be honest, expensive garments, they also, I’m sure, better reflect the brand’s key clientele. Bravo! A brave and authentic coup de grâce, that had me thoroughly won over!

From Catwalk to Carousel…

Over to you! Do you like this collection? What’s your favourite look? What are your thoughts on heritage brands? Are you a fool for wool, like me? Leave me a note in the comments!

Special thanks to Seven Dials PR and Johnstons of Elgin for inviting me and to BIG Partnership for catwalk images.

Thanks for reading!

Nx